Peptides in Skincare: What They Really Do—and When They Matter Most

Peptides are everywhere in skincare right now—serums, eye creams, lip treatments—and they’re often positioned as must-have ingredients for collagen, firmness, and skin repair. 

However, not all peptides work the same way.  How they are combined in a formulation matters, and just because peptides are listed on the label doesn’t mean they actually penetrate the skin or are clinically-proven to have a real, measurable effect on human skin.

Before you buy your next peptide-powered skincare product, below are a few things to keep in mind to ensure your investment drives real skincare results.

First, what exactly ARE peptides? 

Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the same building blocks that make up proteins such as collagen and elastin. In skincare, peptides act as messengers, helping skin cells communicate more effectively. You can think of them as tiny text messages telling the skin to make more collagen, calm inflammation, repair damage, or respond differently to stress. 

In dermatology, we generally group peptides into four functional categories. Based on the skincare result you want, the type of peptide used in a skincare formula is key:

Signaling Peptides: 

Sometimes called matrikines, signaling peptides are the workhorses if you want to help restore collagen in your skin. They signal fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin, to increase production. This becomes especially relevant as we age, particularly during perimenopause and menopause, when collagen production declines and breakdown accelerates. Examples of peptides that have the strongest science behind them for collagen renewal include palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.

Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides:

Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides modulate nerve signaling and can either influence muscle activity or help calm inflammation in the skin. Some of these peptides are often described as “Botox-like” because their mechanism of action is similar to the way botox works to  target  dynamic wrinkles in your skin—i.e., wrinkles that appear more pronounced as you move your face muscles.

Despite the nickname, no topical formula (even one packed with neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides) is going to trump a procedure like Botox injections when it comes to reducing wrinkles. Botox itself is a much larger, complex protein that, when injected, blocks nerve-to-muscle communication deep within the skin, reducing muscle contraction. While these smaller peptides can show Botox-like effects on nerve–muscle signaling in lab and preclinical studies, I’ve always been skeptical about how much impact they can have when applied topically. The neuromuscular junction sits far below the skin surface, which is why, in practice, these topical peptides seem most relevant in areas of thinner skin, like the eyelids. The most compelling published and unpublished data I’ve seen show improvements in the appearance of expression lines primarily around the eyes. So, if you’re going to invest in peptides that claim to relax muscle contraction, I believe that’s where they’re most likely to make a meaningful difference. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a well-researched neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide.

Carrier Peptides:

Carrier peptides act as delivery vehicles, binding trace minerals, such as copper, and helping to transport them into the skin to support wound healing and collagen synthesis. Copper tripeptide-1 is the most well-known example. 

Enzyme-Inhibiting Peptides:

Enzyme-inhibiting peptides focus on preservation. They help slow enzymes that break down collagen and elastin over time. Since aging involves both decreased collagen production and increased degradation, these peptides help protect what you already have. Soy-derived protein peptides are one example.

When it comes to peptides in skincare, beyond the types of peptides used, formulation matters enormously in ensuring that the peptides can actually penetrate deep enough into the skin to do their jobs. 

Peptides are relatively large, water-loving molecules, while the outermost layer of the skin is lipid-rich and highly selective. This combination means that one of the biggest issues with peptides is penetration, and so formulation matters enormously. To be effective, peptides need a delivery system that both protects them as they travel into your skin and enhances bioavailability and compatibility with your skin (i.e. they can absorb better). Without a thoughtful molecular design, many peptides will simply just sit on the surface of your skin.  

At DWB Beauty, we are very deliberate and evidence-based when it comes to use of peptides in our products. Peptides are included where they make biological sense, and then we do extensive, independent clinical testing to ensure that the peptides in your skincare are  formulated with the most impactful combinations, are used at the right concentrations, and are housed in the best technology to deliver them effectively into your skin. 

You can find peptides in our 100% clinically-proven products: 

• P46™ Peptide + HA Plumping Serum 

• Tri-Liptide™ Peptide Lip Enhancing Treatment 

• Retinal Night™ Advanced 0.1% Retinal Firming Treatment 

• Bowe Glowe Cleanser Gentle Creamy Face Wash

References: 

Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2009 Oct;31(5):327-45. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x. Epub 2009 Jun 30. PMID: 19570099. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19570099/