3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid is a derivative of L-ascorbic acid. The molecular structure of 3-o-ethyl-ascorbic is very similar to the original L-ascorbic acid structure, except it has an ethyl group at the 3rd carbon. This structural modification actually protects it from ionization and oxidation, making it more stable.
Like L-ascorbic acid, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic is water soluble. But unlike L-ascorbic acid, it also has some oil soluble properties due to the additional ethyl group. This also makes it more optimal for skin uptake. It can also be formulated at a higher pH of 4.0-5.50, making it easier to formulate with, be more stable, and more suitable for sensitive skin types.
In Asta C Vitamin C Age Defense Serum, we combined both water and oil-soluble antioxidants to work together through different pathways for an enhanced, synergistic effect. The stratum corneum is composed mostly of lipids, so ingredients that are oil-soluble or lipid-loving, like THD ascorbate, may be absorbed more easily through this layer. Parts of our skin cells are also primarily water-based, and it is thought that ingredients that are more water-soluble travel between these different layers of the skin more effectively. 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid is water-loving. Combining these two antioxidants gives you the best of vitamin c’s skin benefits in oil-loving and water-loving form without the instability and formulation limitations.
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